Vespula Veterans Tracking on the Nooksack River

Managing Hazards is an essential part of being a wilderness traveler.  In our region weather systems that bring rain, particularly lots of rain, are a common occurrence and usually usher in several hazards that we have to be aware of.  While flooding is one of the most dramatic and dangerous hazards that we may encounter in our travels to both wild places and places close to home, we also should consider the stability of the soil we are traveling on and below, as well as our own body temperature and comfort.  Our day trips have always been a fantastic way to safely explore these hazards so when we encounter them on longer wilderness trips they appear less daunting, which allows our group to find the most appropriate way to manage the hazards we encounter and still explore the wild places that beckon to us.

With this in our minds the mentors met the Vespula Veterans for yet another outing in heavy rain.  When the mentoring team plans our outings we give some consideration to what weather conditions may occur, but it is often difficult to balance the desire to go to places that our groups rarely visits with what the weather may be doing when we are there.  Compound this with the fact that we are typically planning these outings at least six months ahead of time and we are often guessing and hoping for what the weather might bring us.  The rising rivers were on the mentor’s minds all night and in the morning after sleeping on several alternative plans we decided to stick with the original plan to head out to the Nooksack and see if we could safely explore its banks, catch a glimpse of its energy in flood from a couple of safe vantage points, and even find a few tracks.

After arriving at Samish Woods the Vespula Veterans boarded our trusty companion Stubbs and we all headed out the Mt. Baker highway towards Truck Road just east of Deming where Deming Homestead Eagle Park is located.  There is a small parking area along side of truck road that provides river access to the Nooksack though several of its flood channels.  When we arrived it was raining hard and the wind was beginning to pickup.  We left the parking area and walked down into a heavy thicket of young alder and cottonwood trees.  The abandoned flood channels were coved in a thick green moss and a well-worn trail took us towards the river.  Along the way we were keeping our eyes open for animal tracks in the sand and mud.  Our hope was to find a couple of tracks worthy of making casts with plaster.  Eventually we left the cover of the alders and emerged onto a side channel of the river that was not flowing, along it there were  several deep pools and lots of sand and mud.  The group spread out looking for tracks in the unrelenting rain. 

Eventually we wandered over towards the rivers edge and circled up to discuss the hazards currently present for our group.  After out cirle some folks watched the slow rise of the river and the various debris floating downstream, while others searched for more tracks to investigate.  Eventually the cold and wet urged us to seek shelter.  We wandered back towards the Stubbs as the water began to trickle into the side channel.  It came slowly at first but it steadily began to fill the puddles and connect them.  It was clear that we had to say goodbye to this spot or risk very wet shoes and boots!  We crossed the final ditch between the river park and the parking area just as it was begining to fill up as well and climbed up onto the path.  We ate lunch and snacks under a very small picnic shelter.  The group was quiet and cold at first, but after some food spirits were much higher. 

We decided to get back on Stubbs and head back towards Deming to check another good tracking spot under the shelter of the bridge at Nugent’s Corner.  When we arrived we found a number of good tracks to cast near the river.  The mentors demonstrated how to mix up the appropriate ratio of plaster to water and how to create a simple dam of mud around the track.  The secret is to achieve a mixture similar to pancake batter and pour it in the track and the surrounding ring.  You let it dry until you can wipe a finger across the back and it comes away clean rather than white with plaster.  Then you rinse the cast until most of the mud or sand has been cleaned off.  While the group was making casts the river was slowly rising.  From our vantage point we could see the power of the river in flood carrying away large trees and debris in the main channel, from the safety of a stable wooded bank.  Eventually the water spilled into our side channel and we had to leave our tracking spot.  We circled up nearby, gave thanks and enjoyed our apples with the steady roar of the river behind us.  The rain once again continues to be our teacher and it is clear there is still plenty to learn from this incredible force that shapes so much of our lives here in Whatcom county.

Many thanks to the explorers and their families for being prepared for the weather this outing had to offer.  It is always a great pleasure to explore with the Vespula Veterans and the mentors are already looking forward to the next outing at Lake Padden-rain or shine!

Vespula Veterans Overnight at Racehorse Falls

Rain.  The Vespula Veterans are familiar with rain.  They are students of the rain.  The rain has taught them how to find shelter from the weather, how to stay dry, how to be wet and still be comfortable, and how to protect their equipment and personal gear from becoming soggy.  Unfortunately most of these lessons were hard earned, but a hard earned lesson is not easily forgotten.  Remembering these past experiences in the rain Steve and Greg quietly anticipated the arrival of the Vespula as the rain continued to fall. 

The start of a new season is always exciting and the mentors and Vespula were both excited about the new bus, Moose.  While Moose may look nearly identical to Stubbs on the outside, it is a wonderful upgrade!   In true EC form we filled it to bursting with packs, group gear, and boys.  After some soggy goodbyes we finished loading up and pulled out of the parking lot on our way to the foothills of the North Cascades.

After a quick stop to pick up one last Vespula we trundled down highway 542 the cabin of Moose echoing with the excited voices of friends catching up on a whole summer of adventures.  The highway eventually gave way to a gravel road and after a short bumpy ride we pulled into the parking lot a near Racehorse Falls.   We scouted the creek for a suitable place to camp exploring the forest as well as the gravel bars and flood channels.  In the end we decided to use the established “camp” and did our best to minimize our impacts on the sight while constructing a camp suitable for lots of rain.  Fortunately we were able to setup our tents during oue of our few breaks in the rain.  We also brought two tarps and created a small sheltered kitchen area and a large covered area where everyone could gather and stay relatively dry in a heavy rain.  These both proved to be wonderful comforts.

One great luxuries of camping near a river is that there is usually abundant firewood that is fairly easy to gather.  After rigging our tarps we gathered wood.  The wood was processed from logs all the way down to kindling.  While the boys did not get a chance to use the small “boy’s axe” Greg brought along, a few were interested in learning safe methods of splitting wood with a small and light axe.  Many boys did however create kindling using the technique called “battoning” where a fixed blade knife, like the Mora’s knives we recommend, is carefully stuck by a stick repeatedly to split a small branch 2-4 inches in diameter until the blade is driven through and the wood is split.  In this way we generated a massive amount of kindling in the pouring down rain.  The ample western red cedar was dry and split easily.

While the kitchen crew readied the dinner of Explorer’s  Mac N’ Cheese (box mac n’ cheese with a ¼ ham) the rest of the explorers huddled under the large tarp trying to stay out of the steady rain.  The warmth of the food lifted soggy spirits and coincided with a long break in the rain, which was much needed!

We finished our evening with “council” where we come together formally as a community to hold space for important conversations.  It is our tradition that we burn a small quantity of sage in an abalone shell that is passed around the entire group.  The Vespula were tired and after a few logistics many headed to their tents and the warmth of their sleeping bags.

The next morning all awoke to a steady rain on our tents.  The promise of a fire and explorer’s oatmeal was enough to lure most from their tents.  Another break in the rain provided a chance for Greg to demonstrate baking in a reflector oven.  Greg brought a small bag of bannock baking mix and baked up a small loaf of bread.  Bannock has been baked over fires for a long time, but using a reflector oven is a really exciting was to bring some fresh baked goods along into the backcountry, provided you are permitted to build a fire.

After our hearty breakfast we packed up our camp and enjoyed some rainy creek exploration.  Nothing was perhaps more captivating than watching the Pink Salmon swim upstream and fight over spawning territories.  Females were digging reds before our eyes and males were desperately trying to keep competitors away.

Lunch was the final action at our creek side camp, before loading up our damp and muddy gear into Moose.  We piled into the bus and Steve navigated logging roads in search of a large landslide from a few years earlier that had unearthed countless fossils.  Unfortunately we never found the landslide we were searching for, but we did explore a steep and fascinating creek drainage.  Buy mid afternoon we were all ready to head back to the warmth and comfort of town.  The rain continued to fall as we unloaded Moose and sad farewell one by one to the Vespula Veterans.

Once again thank you to the Vespula Veterans for showing up.  Season after season you bring your energy and enthusiasm to our outings no matter the weather and as a result we make the most of every situation.  Another heartfelt thank you to the families of the vespula veterans, for without your support, encouragement, and trust these opportunities for exploration would not be possible.  Thank you!

Photos from the outing can be found here!

The Chuckanut Traverse with the Vespula Veterans

On Tuesday the 22^nd the Vespula Veterans embarked on a backpack that seemed like a reasonable four day trip in the Chuckanut Wilderness full of expansive play and connection. However this journey proved to be quite the opposite. The wilderness decided to show its rugged nature, demanding our sustained action, skill, and focus. The land tested the limits of our physical and mental endurance. It exposed our rough edges and required us to dig deeper and explore the limits of our power. The Explorers showed effective leadership and courage in the face of many environmental and psychological challenges. They acted as a cohesive group, showing care for one another and rising to the occasion. Although we ended the trip a day earlier than was planned, we triumphed as a group and weathered the storm. Through this experience the Vespula Veterans marked their gradual transition from childhood to adult. They are no longer Explorers, although they can always hold this name dear. They are now 4 Shielders.

Arriving at the Oyster Dome trailhead some boys looked nervous, others eager and some indifferent. After saying goodbye to their families, the Vespulas turned their attention to the daunting pile of group gear that was laid out in front of them and we started to divvy it out.  While the boys sorted this gear, Greg took a moment to share with group some backpacking culture.  He told the boys that on a backpack we must forget the idea of personal gear because we an interdependent group. Our strength lies in the ability to work together and share resources. In the 4 Shields Program we simply say, We Not ME. This motto is rich on many levels to 4 Shielders and will continue to deepen and gain meaning as they step into their Mentor Apprenticeships.

Once the packs were ready and our minds were brought together, we began our long climb up Blanchard Mountain. The group stopped many times on the initial climb to adjust their packs and pro-actively apply moleskin to their feet. Realizing the strenuous nature of this trail, the group found their pace and slowly climbed feasting on Red Huckleberries to quench their thirst. The Mentors allowed the group to stop as many times as they deem necessary on the way up. Periodically resting is a preventative measure and a very important self-care element in backpacking. While well timed breaks prevent blisters and dehydration, if taken unnecessarily the pace is lost and the group suffers.

The boys battled the temptation to stop and rest too frequently all the way up the mountain. 4 Shielders must focus on the ability to quiet their mind and focus on the task at hand.  This skill will be required in the years to come. After some lunch at a beautiful view point, the group tracked the land and referenced the map in search of clues that would indicate how far it was to our destination. Climbing the last section of trail, prior to the junction with Lizard Lake, was challenging for most of the group. As the boys crested the last hill, the Explorers cheered each other on. They had made it past their long elevation climb; it had taken a good majority of the day. With a little over a mile left, the group quickened their pace and we soon found ourselves at Lily Lake.

Once the whole group had caught up to each other, the boys looked to the Mentors for directions to Lizard Lake.  However, the mentors would not answer and told them to consult the map. After some deliberation, the group picked a trajectory and we were off. The Lizard Lake trail branches off of Lily Lake on the west side. The group was so eager to get there that they completely missed the connection and started to loop back around to Lilly Lake. Calling them back, we had a great conversation about learning to read the land and maintaining our focus even when we are tired and hungry. The boys decided to send out scouts and consult the map.  As a result, they found the trail and in no time we arrived at Lizard Lake.  By this time it was 6:00 o’clock and our work was not yet finished.  Here is where all that group process in the Boys EC would pay off. The group circled up and we outlined the tasks that needed to be accomplished.

Our first priority was to set up tarp shelters. Vespula’s can you still remember the proper way to set one up? Here are some key phrases that might jog your memory: Bowline and Tarp Knots, 45-degree angles, is the perimeter safe and where is the water going to run.  The group did a great job setting up the tarps, as we would come to find out we were going to need them. Once we had shelter, some of the group gathered water, others harvested fire wood and still others made dinner in teams. It was fantastic watching the boys work together with such great attitudes even though we were all exhausted.  That night we ate dinner in the dark and went to bed without even having a fire.

As we slumbered, storm clouds rolled over Chuckanut Ridge. Little did we know, our trip was about to change completely. We awoke to hard rain. Greg and I crawled out of our tents and quickly put all our gear into dry bags recognizing our immediate need for food and fire. With the help of a few early risers, we got a fire going with a bow drill and prepared breakfast in a hurry.  The boys awoke to find their gear and sleeping bags in a puddle. Some of the group left their backpacks, cloths and boots exposed to the elements. Know this 4 Shielders, when we are backpacking any mistake or oversight could spell disaster.  As you grow toward leadership and increased responsibility within your communities, you must be able to think preventatively and consider the consequences of your actions. Having said that, we are all human and make mistakes; which is a natural part of the growth process. Navigating the Chuckanuts is similar to navigating the cultural “wilderness” back home.  Looking a little disheveled and tired, the group shared some heartfelt thanks, hot tea and oatmeal, which warmed our bones.

After breakfast Greg took the boys over to the mentors’ shelter and showed them what theirs should have looked like. Gear was packed securely in dry bags and our sleeping bags were protected from the moisture.  4 Shielders this was your call to action.  Some of you chose to heed our words and you faired quite well; others did not. If the heavy rain wasn’t already challenging enough, the wilderness hit the group with a perfect storm. The hard rain picked up and one of the boys experienced a medical issue, required a slow evacuation.  Feeling some urgency, the group moved some tarp shelters out of the puddles and did some damage control while the mentors worked out the evacuation plan via cell phone.

Once the plan was finalized, we gathered under the Kitchen tarp shelter and discussed the plan with the rest of the group over lunch. Greg and the boy with the medical issue would rendezvous with outside help and the remaining 4 Shielders would ultimately hike off the backside of Blanchard Mountain to meet Dave and Matt on a logging road. Without the help of Greg and one of the boys, the rest of the group need to tend to each others needs at camp, keep the fire going, harvest more wood and keep the shelters in order while gathering additional water.  By no means was the group near a place of panic, but we were reaching the edges of our comfort zones the tasks kept piling up while our boots filled with water.  Sending the two off was not easy and we eagerly awaited news of a safe rendezvous followed by Greg’s return to the group.  During this process, our phones shorted out from exposure to the excessive rain leaving us without the advantage of cell phone communication.  While we waited, a thick mist rolled over the lake followed by a strong breeze. Looking around we knew what was coming our way. A party quickly went out to harvest more wood while others maintained camp. Navigating off trail, the group found a thirty-foot hemlock snag and felled it. Crash! The tree landed with a resounding thud and the group let out a triumphant cheer. We cut the tree into sections and the heartwood was bone dry. It was so empowering to be able to harvest dry wood in such oppositional conditions.

While we carried the wood back to camp, the hardest rain I have ever seen in the Northwest soaked us to the bone. We made it back to the fire just in the nick of time and rejuvenated it. At this point, it became apparent that we would need to take pro-active measures to avoid hypothermia. A few of the boys scouted a large rock that had a dry patch under an overhang. The boys huddled together in the dry spot while keeping each other entertained by playing a flute, laughing, carving and watching the rain.

With dinner almost ready and the fire still going, Greg made a triumphant return. The Shielder was safely return to his family and Greg had made it back safe. At that moment, the rain let up to a sprinkle. We took our weather window opportunity and dried our wet layers around the fire while we ate. The group decided that we did not need a circle of thanks because it was easy to feel the thanks radiating from us.

Just as we finished, another deluge of rain began and we quickly got everything in order to return to our shelters for the night. Both boys and Mentors were exhausted but not downtrodden. I have to commend the group for having excellent attitudes through these unusual and unpredictable challenges. Their positive attitude is what kept us going through the storm. I attribute this to the many outings spent in the fall and early spring rains in Explorers Club. These boys are truly resilient in their bodies and minds. This skill will help them through the storms of adolescence and beyond.

After checking in with each other in regard to self care (both mentally and physically), we returned to our respective shelters to weather the longest sustained heavy rain the mentors had ever experienced in the Pacific Northwest. The rain consistently beat against our shelters for four hours. At times it was so loud we could not talk to the others in our own shelter. The water bounced four inches off the ground as hit and then pooled in miniature torrents that flowed through our shelters.  After a long, hard night, we awoke to find no change in the weather. After Greg checked in with everyone individually, it was obvious that we needed to bail on our schedule and end the trip one day earlier than planned. Greg left in the hopes of finding reception on our only semi-working cell phone but returned with another permanently water-damaged phone. Formulating a solid plan, Greg decided he would hike down and find the nearest phone to contact parents and have them drive to the rendezvous point. Once this was decided, those who were still dry stayed in their shelters and those who were wet went to the dry spot underneath the rock. We boiled tea water for an hour and a half. Two of the Explorers were experiencing mild hypothermia and needed to be put into sleeping bags with hot tea to warm them up. It was very powerful to see those that were doing well helping those who needed warmth by sharing their gear. These boys reflected an extreme amount of care and empathy for one another; it was very obvious. I am deeply grateful for their resilient attitudes and hard work that morning. 4 Shielders please note that the only reason some boys were able to provide their gear to those in need was due to the fact that they were preventative through out the entire trip. Some had all the means to keep their gear and sleeping bags dry, but lacked the experience, attention to detail, awareness and focus to do so. This is something to reflect on and put into practice in your day-to-day lives to hone for our next wilderness trip and anticipate the fulfillment of being able to help others in times of need.

Once again, Greg had to leave the group and find a way to connect with the parents.  Upon saying goodbye to Greg, the group knew we needed to rely on the plan we developed, the skills we possessed, the faith and trust we had in each other, our resiliency, and a disciplined approach toward completing our evacuation. These were the elements that brought us safely through the storm and those same elements would get us through the rest of the way. As we packed up, the clouds started to lighten and the rain stopped. The group decided to enjoy lunch under the rock that had kept us safe the day before. After giving thanks, we shouldered our packs and hiked off the East side of Blanchard Mountain. About three fourths of the way down the trail we were greeted by Greg Schayes telling us that the parents were at the rondevu waiting for us. Over joyed, we hiked with a renewed lightness in our step. All of our effort, fortitude and discipline allowed us to greet the parents with open arms, not as disheveled boys running back to the shelter of their elders, but as 4 Shielders who now possess a better orientation to the skills required to meet the demands of coming storms on our journey to adulthood. We reunited with a new found sense of appreciation and responsibility to our community.

In many societies throughout history boys have left their communities to embark on what Joseph Campbell has coined the “Hero’s Journey”. In this journey in the boy recognizes the need to set an intention towards adulthood and is also recognized by his elders and mentors as being ready to embark on such a journey.  During the journey, he often experiences challenges where his edges are revealed. However, by overcoming these tribulations, he identifies and places confidence in his strengths.  The new found strengths represent gifts that he brings back to his community.  Vespula Veterans, I am excited to have shared a true “Hero’s Journey” with you and I am deeply grateful for the privilege of being part of your journey. You have identified and gained confidence in the strengths you possess.  Take the lessons you learned from this particular journey and hold them close. Remember, your powers and gifts and be thankful for the strong community that helped you through.

The Mentors would like to thank all the parents for their support and unwavering faith and trust in the boys and their Mentors. Thank you for being compassionate, caring and for recognizing the hard work that these 4 Shielders put in on this journey. We would also like to thank Matt Fogarty and Dave Strich being such strong, dedicated support staff and co-mentors. They are so in tune with the program that they recognizing and responded to our needs before we could fully communicate our circumstances to them.  Thanks to Rebecca Schayes for providing us with consultation, support, and guidance as a strong partner and ally. Lastly, thanks to the land for providing us with just the right challenge and for providing all that we needed to meet the challenge. 

As I watched the Vespula’s connect back with their parents, I was reminded of a quote by Walt Whitman that sums up our trip quiet well, “Now I see the secret of making the best person: it is to grow in the open air and to eat and sleep with the earth.”

For more pictures of the Chuckanut Traverse please visit the Vespula Veterans Photo Gallery. Thanks!

Ozette Passage

Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread. –Edward Abbey

Arriving at Samish Woods after completing the Ozette Passage I was reminded that often times when we venture out into wild places we don’t look particularly different upon our return. We may be a little dirty or weary from the journey, but largely we appear unchanged. Perhaps we ourselves are unaware of the imprints that wild places leave on our sprit. Often we have stories so large that it becomes difficult to convey them with the words of our daily life. With this in mind I hope to share the essence of our trip.

Expeditionary Behavior (EB), this was the core of our experience at Ozette, and the fundamental lesson that the mentors continually returned to. We define EB as caring for the group and all its needs just as you would for yourself. All our daily chores were an opportunity for practicing good EB: filtering water, preparing meals, setting up and taking down tents, packing up packs, carrying group gear, and traveling as a group. This is the most important skill we can carry forward to future journeys. As those parents who witnessed the boys unloading Stubbs after a 15-hour day of traveling can attest to, the members of the Ozette Passage brought back a strong culture of good expeditionary behavior to their community.

Our journey began in the front-country navigating logistics and preparing equipment for the backcountry. By having the boys participate in some of the prior planning the mentors were able to plant a seed for how critical proper prior planning is to a successful wilderness journey. The boys spent the first two days of the trip navigating this part of wilderness travel and found it challenging at times.  Learning to set up tents, run stoves, organize food, and properly pack backpacks isn’t as glamorous as crossing a headland, but they are crucial aspects of a backpacking trip on the Olympic coast. Logistic days can be filled with a sense of impatience, but at breakfast on our departure morning several of the boys mentioned that they appreciated being involved in the logistics when we gave thanks before eating. This early stage of preparation lets the boys take on much more leadership in the backcountry.  

After a restful sleep we all awoke and packed up our camp. Front-country gear was organized and put away on Stubbs and all of our backcountry gear was packed up into our packs. Each person on the trip found a way to carry some group gear. Just before crossing the Ozette River we spotted a river otter swimming around. We quietly watched it swim and forage along the bank and were eventually rewarded when it caught a fish and consumed it in the water. We shouldered our packs and headed out across the bridge that would mark our first threshold of the trip from the front-country to the backcountry.  

The first hiking leg of our journey was an easy 3.1 miles of nearly flat trail interspersed with wooden boardwalks that wound through impressive Sitka Spruce forests and prairies filled with Sphagnum moss, Labrador Tea, and stunted Western Hemlocks. The forest eventually gave way to the shore and huge views of the rocky islets and sandy beaches of the Ozette coast. We passed several campsites up on the bank and eventually headed down to the beach in search of the perfect camp. When we finally decided upon one Steve began preparing our delicious TL (Trail Lunch), which is a calorie packed quick and delicious feast of PB&J, Wasa rye crackers, a hunk of cheddar cheese, a hunk of salami, and a large piece of dried fruit. The key to a good TL is not to eat so much that you want to take a nap, but not so little that you still feel really hungry afterwards.

After setting up our camp and stowing food in the bear canisters we headed north up the beach in search of the Ozette Memorial and any other interesting things we might see along the way.  The memorial was up on the bank next to a deteriorating ranger cabin. It was about eight by ten feet large and made entirely of cedar. Four stout cedar posts made the corners and hand-hewn beans with many adze and axe marks made up the rafters and joists. The roof and sides were long split boards of cedar. Outside the memorial’s open doorway were huge pieces of bone from some large whale’s skull, while the inside was filled with bones. Most of them were from marine mammals like seals and sea lions, but there were several whale vertebrae, ribs, and skull fragments. A small plaque commemorates the peoples who lived historically on this land. Each and every member of our group was struck by the power of this small memorial.

With dawn came the roar of the small stove and sweet smells of Explorers Oatmeal—quick cooking oats fortified with flax seeds, coconut oil, brown sugar, chopped ginger, and cinnamon.  Even those who don’t typically eat oatmeal enjoyed the hearty, warming food. We broke camp and headed down to the beach and began our second leg of the trip, a 3.1-mile beach walk. Our goal was to reach the Wedding Rocks by lunch and our camp at Sand Point by early afternoon. Our packs felt heavy and the shifting gravel beach was difficult to keep a steady pace on. Huge downed trees made interesting obstacles that had to be gone around or under (they were enormous).  Lunch at the Wedding Rocks was short and sweet as we began to feel the push and pull of the tide as it slowly rose and pushed us up closer to forest for our last stretch of beach before Sand Point.

Obtaining water in the backcountry is one of the daily critical tasks. In the Ozette triangle region the Park Service recommends filtering or boiling the water over using chlorine or iodine chemistry, as these will not kill cryptosporidium, a nasty little protozoa that nobody wants to ingest. The challenge of the Ozette region, especially after an unseasonable dry spring, is that the water is filled with tannins that rapidly clog filter cartridges. The tea colored water we filtered looked pretty unappetizing, but was delicious tasting! Our water source at Sand Point was the most difficult to filter, but we found a beautiful clear and free flowing stream next to our camp at Yellow Banks.  

Our evening at Sand point was damp from the ocean mist, but after we ate a simple meal of ramen noodles, broth and sautéed carrots, onion, and sweet potatoes we gathered for an evening council on the beach. The boys prepared a small space using logs to protect us from the chill of the wind and damp mist rolling off the ocean breeze. Our Council ritual is simple. First we gather in a circle and light a smudge.  The smudge is a mixture of Big Leaf Sagebrush, White Sage, and Sweetgrass. We place a small amount in an Abalone shell and light it with a match. The mixture burns briefly and then smolders giving off a sweet smoke. This shell is then passed around the circle and each member of the council blows on the ember and passes the smoking abalone shell along his arms and legs. It is almost like bathing. This ritual is a way of preparing for the council and brings deep focus to every single person in the circle. We discussed many things in our council space, but mostly we talked about things pertaining to Expeditionary Behavior. We used the council to form plans for the next day or discuss important decisions about the trip. After discussing the day’s journey and the challenges of the next day we retreated from the beach through the wall of Salal to our snug tents; the sounds of the waves lulling us to sleep.

Steve and Greg awoke early and every Explorer was up and breaking camp by 6:30 in the morning. After another hearty round of EC Oats we headed out on the broad expanse of sandy beach to the south of Sand Point. The firm sand was so easy to walk on and it was a joy to walk side by side with heavy packs and take in the magnificent views of the Yellow Banks, our second headland.  

South of Sand point there is very little day hiker traffic. Once you have decided to round the Yellow Banks headland you are committed. The tides will not let you go around headland if they are too high and you have to wait until the tides are below 5’ before you can safely attempt the crossing. We had two high and two low tides a day: a High High, Low Low, Low High, and High Low.  The lowest tides during our journey were in the morning with the first high tide coming about six hours later in the early afternoon, so all headland crossing were going to have to be done early in the morning. This feeling of commitment and exposure intensifies the need for good expeditionary behavior, because careless behavior from one individual can put the whole group in jeopardy. The boys were well prepared and with a dogged focus they carefully picked their way across slippery rocks, ankle deep gravel, and through tunnels to reach the other side of the headland. There was a sense of deep satisfaction as the boys set foot upon a beach that had never been visited by another Boys Explorers’ club backpacking trip!

The camp at Yellow Banks was nestled in the beach logs several feet above the high tideline.  Small platforms made for cramped spots for tents, but without too much fuss the tents were secured and rigged for strong winds should they unexpectedly arrive. The sun on the beach invited the boys to play in the shallows of the gentle shore break. A game of wading and standing atop a small and short log ended quickly when a wave finally floated the log and bumped it into the toes of one of the members of our group. Despite wearing water shoes the log had bent his toes in a way that caused lots of pain when he walked. Steve and Greg utilized their WFR training and preformed a complete patient assessment; testing the toes for usability.   Using a bucket found on the beach we created a cold soak for the patient’s toes and administered some Ibuprofen. The other boys watched quietly and were eager to include our patient in several games of cards while he soaked his foot and rested.  After a few hours our patient was hobbling around glad to be free from the icy cold bucket of water!

Our Council that evening was somewhat somber. Steve and Greg presented a change of the itinerary to the group that would create a safer exit for us all. Originally we had planned to have a layover day at Yellow Banks and spend much of it having some longer solo time on the beach and on the final morning we would rise very early and walk back around the headland to Sand Point and then across the final leg of the triangle to Stubbs. The pace of the final morning was the critical factor in our decision and we all agreed that it made the most sense to rise early and head back to Sand Point in order to break the trip up and not have to keep a quick pace on the final morning with a potentially sore foot in our team. The way in which our group responded to this decision showed tremendous maturity.  

After council the mentors made a final check on the rising tide. We diligently made sure that every tent was well above the high tide line. While watching and assessing the waves we noticed that down the beach where a neighboring group had camped a flurry of activity had erupted. Headlamps were switching on and appeared to be making trips from near the water to higher up on the beach. It was clear that they had not planned their camp adequately and had been woke by the rising tide at the door of their tent. For two cold misty hours Steve and Greg sat quietly on a log next to the tents watching over the slumbering boys. It was a sobering thought to imagine waking to a cold wave splashing over you while snug in a sleeping bag. It was also a great affirmation that careful planning and camp selection pays off.  Finally the tide began to recede and Steve and Greg retired to their sleeping bags as the moon emerged from behind the towering spruces above our camp.

On the morning of July 1st we broke camp and the boys quickly packed up camp and we headed north around the headland, this time avoiding the small tunnel through the sand stone and staying on the rocks. One wet rock sent an Explorer down on his knee and was a great reminder that slow is fast and fast is slow. Fortunately he was able to sit and rest for a few minutes and then cautiously make his way along the rest of the slick rocks unscathed.  For the final leg of the hike back to Sand Point Steve and Greg facilitated a solo hike on the beach. The process is simple, the Explorers wait in a group and one at a time they are released giving them spacing between each other. Greg headed out first and after five minutes of walking he placed a stick with a blue plastic bottle on it in the sand.  The first explorer then walked until he passed it, which then signaled the next Explorer to begin his walk.  So eventually all the Explorers were sandwiched between Steve and Greg in a big long line that stretched for half a mile along the huge expansive beach. At they end they all grouped up to Greg at the other end and quickly circled up to share some brief thoughts. After living and traveling in close quarters it seemed like the perfect time and place to create a little solitude for the boys.

Our final day in camp was spent exploring the sunny beach, carving, gathering water, and preparing and cooking falafel. The sun drained our energy and when the cool air of the evening arrived we had our final council of the trip. We had the boys’ construct a medicine wheel oriented to the cardinal directions and asked them to decorate it with things they gathered on the beach.  We reflected on the trip together and Steve and Greg shared with the group that they had all become wilderness travelers. They had crossed beyond a headland that required total commitment to their group and their own skills and had safely navigated their way back. The mentors also shared how it can be difficult to re-enter into the front-country with all the conveniences and people after traveling simply in a small group.  The rising of the full moon over the beach was a great finale to a wonderful day in the backcountry.  

On the morning of our final day the land offered us one final lesson: we should always be vigilant about safety in the backcountry. We had a close call eating breakfast. Our group gathered for our Explorer’s Oats with the intention of sitting on a log together to say a farewell to the ocean before we walked back through the woods to Stubbs. As customary the mentors served the boys first and were just walking to join the boys when a low “thunk” came from the beach followed by cries of “Steve!” and “Greg!” The mentors rushed the ten steps through the Salal that formed a wall between the beach and our camp. They found boys standing on the beach and one with his leg trapped under a huge log. Quickly Steve and the boys lifted the large log and the leg was freed. The soft sand prevented the leg from getting seriously injured and the only injury the Explorer sustained was a small scrape on the heel. We all breathed sighs of relief that nobody was seriously hurt.  We debriefed with the boys immediately and reflected upon how despite walking and sitting on that very log the previous afternoon, it shifted when we all sat on it. It was a great reminder that we cannot take our safety for granted and that traveling in the backcountry simply requires an extra measure of caution.

Our journey back along the boardwalk was beautiful and we soon arrived at Stubbs. We packed up and headed out from Ozette, making a brief stop at Lake Crescent to swim and wash away the grime and sand from the journey. We enjoyed the comforts of pizza while waiting for the ferry and a smooth crossing. We arrived at Samish Woods Montessori at dusk and were greeted by smiling parents eager to hear stories from the trip.  

Wilderness Travelers! Thank you for putting forth so much effort to the group. This was a fantastic trip full of joy, beauty, and deep care for one another. It was an honor to serve as your mentoring team on this journey. Heartfelt thanks to the families of these wilderness travelers; your support of this program and these trips is deeply appreciated.  Working with your sons is such a privilege. They are very fine human beings indeed!

Vespula Veterans and Racoon Kits serve Connelly Creek

Sunny Skies greeted the mentors as they unloaded gear and prepared tools and paperwork for a day of tending the land at the Connelly Creek service site.  Mentors look forward to the service outing for a number of reasons, but above all is a chance to give back to the land.  In both the Explorer’s Club and the Four Shields Program we utilize the land as a teacher.  Our mentoring community firmly believes that our boys learn best when they can leave the trail behind and immerse in the forest or beach.  Inevitably our exploring has impact upon the land.  There are undoubtedly small plants that are stepped on, and birds that are disturbed, but we tread with care and a deep respect and gratitude for the places we visit and the opportunities provided by them.  Our service outings are a way we can say thank you and offer our hard work in exchange for our hard play and exploration.

This outing marks the 5^th season of service at the Connelly Creek site for the Vespula Veterans and the 3^rdseason of service for the Raccoon Kits.  Our eldest group, the Vespula Veterans, arrived at 11:00am and carried the tools over to our site.  After quickly unpacking and organizing them for the work ahead, the boys took the first hour to practice some of the wilderness travel skills they will be using in their upcoming overnight outing at Racehorse Falls (and for some their summer backpacking trip to Olympic National Park).  The boys practiced lighting stoves, and setting up Wild Whatcom’s new Backpacking tents.  Mentors offered insights and suggestions about technique, but the boys took on the responsibility to practice the skills and gain comfort with these pieces of equipment.

After a brief capacity test of the tents, some of the boys decided to have stealth sit spot and see if they could scout the Raccoon Kits as they arrived.  Other Vespula Veterans worked on their fire by friction skills and got a preview of saw skills, which they will be learning on their trip to Racehorse falls.  Once the Raccoon Kits arrived we gathered in a large circle to forge our service team.  Since all had done service at Connelly Creek before we quickly reviewed tool safety and our service goals.

Bellingham Parks department, who overseas our work in the park, tasked the boys with two primary jobs: first to “walk down” the invasive Reed Canary Grass, and second to mulch over it.  In the past we have cut the grass back, however it appears that when it is cut it grows back with even more vigor.  So we set out to trample the grass and spread the mulch.  Last season the Boys Explorers Club planted several alder trees, as well as some small shrubs.  All of them survived our mild winter and appear to be growing.  Currently their biggest threat is getting stepped on by a well-meaning explorer in the midst of doing service.  To reduce this possibility the boys enhanced rings of mulch around these vulnerable plants to make them more visible and to help retain moisture near them as the weather warms this summer.

The mentors were impressed at the boy’s ability to move mulch.  Without prompting several teams emerged and began to move the mulch from the pile to the plants and the trampled grass.  One group shoveled the mulch into buckets and trash cans, another was hauling the mulch, another was spreading the mulch, and yet another was weeding grass around the plantings.  After moving the entire mulch pile, it was time for the Vespula Veterans to say farewell to the Raccoon Kits and have and have their closing meeting.    The Raccoon Kits stayed for another hour and transitioned to digging out stubborn blackberry roots before finishing their day with gratitude and apples at their closing meeting. 

The Boys Explorer’s Club and Four Shields Mentoring Community would like to thank Mentor Jake Ray for stepping in as an alternate in Brian’s absence.  The mentoring community would also like to extend our gratitude to all the boys and their families.  Without all of you we simply wouldn’t be able to do this work and for that we are

The Vespula Veterans Play in the Chuckanuts

The warmth of Spring greeted Mentors and Vespula Veterans alike in the parking area above Clayton Beach.  As the mentors and boys visited during the arrival time the scent of fallen Cottonwood buds filled the air with its rich and sweet aroma.  Our opening meeting was short and efficient and we decided to hike up the road towards Fragrance and Lost lakes until we found a suitable place to play a long game of Spider’s Web. 

The boys have been working hard to learn the various wilderness skills Steve and Greg have been teaching, but the Vespula Veterans have been craving a chance to play a long game of spiders web.  So after hiking up the road for a few minutes we left the road and hiked up through a Salal thicket to a narrow ridge. We stopped and ate some lunch and after looking around we decided to return to a patch of forest that was better suited to a long game.

The Vespula demonstrated some pretty rusty stealth skills, and clearly forgot that in Spider’s Web “Slow is fast and fast is slow.”  The understory and forest floor was difficult to sneak in despite the abundance of large ferns.  The quiet of the forest made the rattle of the ferns and Salal seem incredibly loud.  Watching over our game was a Pileated Wood Pecker, who was calling and drumming throughout our time in the forest.

For the last part of our outing we practiced some skills: half of the group worked on lighting our stove and the other half worked on rigging a tarp.  The stove group quickly assembled, primed and lit the Wisperlight stove reassuring the mentors that they were in fact paying attention on our last outing.  They filled a pot of water and put it on to boil for tea.  The boys working on the tarp remembered some of the knots and by the time we started our closing meeting had nearly set up a tarp, despite not having practiced since the summer backpacking trips (if at all!)

At the opening meeting Greg distributed a three-foot length of purple rope to each Vespula for the purpose of practicing knots.  The closing meeting started off with a quick refresher on the bowline knot, which is a very strong knot that can be used to tie a line to the corner grommet of a tarp.  Following tradition we cut apples and offered gratitude for the forest, oxygen, Explorer’s Club, and a few others.

Looking towards the future our next outing is a service outing.  In addition to continuing work on our service site, we will spend some more time practicing skills that will come in handy for our final outing this spring at racehorse falls.  Thank you for another wonderful day in the woods! 

Resources for knot tying and tarp rigging:

YouTube Demonstrations

Taught Line Hitch

Bowline

The Vespula Veterans Explore Pt. Whitehorn

A beautiful sunny sky greeted the Vespula Veterans.  They were eager to reconnect after a long winter’s separation.  Our community welcomed a new member, Xavier who brings new energy, perspective and knowledge to our group.  Once all had arrived we piled into Stubbs and headed north to Pt. Whitehorn--The decibel level increasing with each mile!

When Stubbs rumbled to a stop in the parking area the boys dropped their packs and scattered into the vast prairie that boarders the park and the BP refinery complex.  They ran and splashed through the tall grass and sedge embodying joy.  A simple crow call and some arm waving by mentors Steve and Greg brought them into begin our season’s first opening meeting.  We distributed jobs and though the excitement was high to get on our way, the Vespula’s briefly explained the culture of jobs and shared responsibility to our newest group member.  Once our kit had been dispersed we set off towards the beach.

The boardwalk takes a circuitous route through a wooded area before it descends a bluff to the beach.  The forest here is subtly different that many of the places we explore.  The primary trees are Sitka Spruce, Red Alder, Paper Birch and Bitter Cherry.  The understory is thick with huge Red Elderberry, and Salmonberry thickets.  The edge of the forest is marked by Pacific Madrone reaching out over the edge of the bluff hanging into space.  Portions of peeled bark litter the steep path to the beach.  The cobbles moderate our pace, as does the tide height.  Next to a huge beach log we drop our gear and eat some lunch.

The opportunities to explore the intertidal area are still rich despite not having a very low tide.   The boys examine crabs, anemones; discover Gunnel fish, and snails.  The Afternoon’s sun and the slight breeze make for a perfect spring day (despite it still actually being winter)!  Rocks are removed and replaced carefully, the Vespula have cultivated a deep respect for life during their journey. 

Steve and Greg called the boys in for a brief story before inviting everyone to have sit spot beside the Pacific Ocean.  Sun warmed cobbles and rocks made for cozy places to sit and observe the lapping waves and wheeling gulls.  Upon returning from the Sit spot, Steve and Greg introduced the first component of the season’s skill focus: the Art of Backpacking, but since most of the skills are completely transferable to other methods of wilderness travel we will probably be referring to it as the Art of Wilderness travel.  Our focus this day was on the safer operation of the MSR Wisperlight stove, which we will be using at each outing this season.  The most important part is to set up a kitchen zone to eliminate the hazard of spilled pots and burned feet.  Then we learned the names of all the parts of the stove and how to set it up in order to light it.  Once the long flames of the priming cup had diminished we opened the fuel valve and heard the familiar whispering of the stove.  We set a large pot of water on it to brew a pot of tea.

While the water was heating up the boys were able to do several things.  Some practiced their fire by friction skills, and others were building with logs down the beach.  Eventually the tea was brewed and offered to the explorers.  After a few more fire by friction attempts we finally called the remaining boys in for our closing meeting.  During our meeting we discussed the four shields model again (we discussed it at our winter gathering as it related to wilderness travel).  The Vespula Veterans decided that this outing was dominated by the south.  There was lots of free exploration and a playful energy to the day (Ask your sons to elaborate on what they remember about what each direction embodies in a wilderness trip).  We gave our thanks for the ocean, beaches, birds, sunshine, rocks and fellow explorers on the beach enjoying our tradition of passing apple slices as each person offers their thanks before the group. 

As we packed up our gear, someone called HIDE! and unfortunately one of the boys ended up hiding in some very wet clay.  His rubber boot was buried and stuck up to the top and nearly submerged.  Fortunately some persistent tugging and it was free.  We ambled back up the bluff trail and through the forest and piled back on Stubbs.  Spirits high, but all somewhat tired from the sun and wind on our faces. 

Thank you all for a wonderful start to the season!

Vespula Veterans Explore North Lake Samish

Exploring in late fall sunshine is always a tremendous gift.  The low arc the sun cuts through the sky creates deep dramatic shadows and the cold air urges the birds to forage and they rove the forests in conspicuous chattering flocks.  In this warming sunshine the boys gathered at North Lake Samish Trailhead eager to explore a new location.

We all basked in the sunlight for our opening circle hearing stories about the younger explorers from the Vespula Veterans who ventured out to EMA.  It was a perfect time to remind the boys how far they have come in their Explorer’s Club journey.  Steve and Greg shared the loose plan for the day, which was three part: 1. Explore the new territory, 2. Play a couple of games, 3. Hold a strong closing circle for the season-preferably around a fire.  The boys weighed in with specific game suggestions and a desire to practice their fire building skills as well.

The Vespula started up the trail from following it’s steep switchbacks that cut across a set of power lines and their clearing.  Eventually we simply left the trail and headed straight up following the power lines and quickly gaining the top of the hill where we met with the cold wind that was keeping the sky clear and the air cold.

Once on the top we headed out of the clearing and into the woods seeking out some places for playing games.  We invented a complicated version of Hide! and checked out the difference between a stump cut with a chain saw and those cut with a crosscut saw and axes, which helped us gauge how old the trees were in the grove that we were playing in.  After a quick lunch we headed over to another part of the forest that was lush with ferns and played a game of Spider’s web.  While the boys set up the game, Steve and Greg prepared a spot to hold closing meeting.  With care we peeled off the layer of moss that covered an old road grade, set it aside and dug through the duff until we reached the cool damp clay soil.  This would be where our fire would be built, and in this way we could return the spot to as close to we found it and not leave a huge scarred and charred hole from our fire.

In order to have a fire at closing circle Steve and Greg challenged the boys to a fire-building contest with our ignition tool being waterproof windproof matches.  The Vespula Veterans scrambled around quickly looking for bits of dry anything.  Steve and Greg utilized those incredibly dependable hemlock trees for their dry lower branches and a bit of fatwood from a nearby stump.  Mentors won that round, but it will be stiff competition next time.

As the boys fanned out to collect some small sticks for a quick fire Greg produced a small pot from his pack and filled it with water in order to brew up some tea.  The assorted tea bags used created a strange herbal tea that tasted surprisingly good.  We gave thanks for a strong season and looked forward to our next gathering in winter to plan spring season.  Realizing the time we poured hot tea in to water bottles and thermos lids.  A nearby creek offered water to extinguish our fire and Steve taught us a way to extinguish our coals by drowning them and then conceal our fire by trenching the ashes and charcoal and replacing the duff and moss we had removed earlier.  The boys scattered some sticks and branches over our spot and the presence of our fire was totally gone.  Steve invited the group to sneak back through the forest to the power line cut in silence and we all felt our way carefully through the brush with only the occasional pop of a twig to betray the presence of our group. 

The setting sun stole what little warmth the day offered and in the quiet of the fading light we had our last sit spot of the season.  Under the power lines the view south across the Skagit valley and over to the cliffs of Alger Alp were extraordinary.  The quiet of the moment sunk into our bones and we were all grateful for another rich day of exploration.  The boys charged down the steep hill to their waiting families in the twilight.

As Mentors we so much gratitude.  We age grateful to the Vespula Veterans for their strength, growing skill, and leadership.  We are grateful for the families of the Vespula Veterans who support this work we do.  We are also grateful for you trust to take your boys into the wild places (near and far) and bring them back slightly changed-be it from a challenge they faced or a skill they practiced.  Finally we are grateful for the wild spaces we can go and explore and all the things these places teach us.  Thank you for another incredible season!  Steve and I hope to see you at some of the outings for 11+ in our winter season.  We are already dreaming up ideas for the spring season for you to weigh in and decide upon at our upcoming winter gathering.  Enjoy the holidays!

Flingin' Things with the Vespula Veterans at Hovander

As mentors we always look forward to meeting up with our Explorers Club groups.  We deeply enjoy the work we do with your boys in the parks of Bellingham and farther afield.  However, there are a few outings that we get especially excited about.  Learning about and making ancient hunting tools is perhaps one of the most eagerly awaited outings for us mentors.  It provides many things that fill our mentoring cups to the brim.  We open our circle to Tim Flores, who is deeply skilled in teaching about hunting tools.  We are provided a fantastic window into your son’s ability to scale up to a very high level of responsibility.  We also get a chance to learn along side your sons and sit in a circle as equal participants.  These things feel wonderful and teach us so much about how far the Vespula Veterans have come on their Explorers Club Journey and where we will go in the future.

Once all the Explorers had arrived we headed north in Stubbs to Hovander Homestead Park.  When we arrived we gathered with Tim who shared more about who he was and what his expectations were for the day.  We picked up our gear, including a fine specimen of Pippo maximus and headed down to the river band to look for some basic hunting tools.  Once at the river we took a quick inventory of the land and spread out to look for sticks, stones, and tracks.  After collecting our tools we headed to one of Hovander’s huge hay fields and took a quick lunch break.

Our orange Pippo maximus was paced out 20 steps and became our quarry.  We experimented with rabbit sticks including using the little cover there was to stalk up to our prey and then throw the stick.  It seemed so simple, yet none of us could manage to hit our target from 20-30 feet away!  Tim then introduced a modified rabbit stick—a boomerang.  We learned the proper way to hold and throw (curved side toward your body, point facing behind, and thrown just a bit above the horizon) the boomerangs and practiced throwing them so that they would return to us.

After getting a chance to work with the rabbit sticks we were then introduced to two different hunting tools: the sling and the bolus.  The sling is a simple tool that allows the user to hurl small rocks at very fast speeds. The bolus that Tim brought were constructed out of p-cord and tennis balls.  We frst practiced throwing the bolus at a stationary vertical target, then we began hunting each other trying to hit a moving target and tangle up each others legs.  By the time we have to shift gears some of the Vespula were becoming pretty accurate with the tennis ball bolus.

Tim gathered up the slings and bolus and called the Vespula into a circle.  From his bag he produced several Atalatl handles and a huge collection of darts.  Tim makes all of the hunting tools himself from materials he has gathered or salvaged.  You cannot go to a store and buy a dart, or an atlatl you must make them yourself, so to be able to have access to these tools was a wonderful privilege.  We discussed the safety considerations of using these tools and learned the proper technique to throwing them.  After this introduction we partnered up and prepared to unleash a rain of darts at the elusive Pippo maximus.  Volly after volley was unleashed and yet despite our increasing accuracy we were unable to hit our target.  Even Steve and Greg were unable to connect.

Reflecting upon the difficulty of hitting our target its clear that to cavalierly state that we can simply hunt for food if we are hungry is a gross misunderstanding of reality.  Only until one has experienced the difficulty of hitting an average sized Pippo maximus do you really understand how much skill is required to turn an elusive wild creature into stew.  Reflecting further upon this outing it is clear that this group of explorers deeply desires to have experiences that allow them to test their skill and learn more complex things.  They also thrive when given responsibility.  Looking forward from this outing to the spring season we will plan accordingly and that planning will be with you.

Our closing circle was held as we traveled in Stubbs back to Bellingham.  We shared our gratitude with the group and savored another fantastic day in Boys Explorers Club.  The mentors send our gratitude to Tim Flores who shares his tools and knowledge with us.  We look forward to seeing you again.  More gratitude extends to the families of these fine young fellows who are such a pleasure to work with.  Thank you for supporting the work we do.  Please check out the photos in the gallery.